So we pull up out of the bush through the khowarib rivier, completely caked in fine, flour-textured dust of the mopane savanah. It's been seven days since we set out into the wild from the brandberg. Suddenly we see a fence rise on our left side, punctured by holes, goats and other farm animals freely crossing through it, the odd herder waving at us as we drive past. In the distance a green tin roofed plaza appears: Kamdesha veterinary gate. The fence on either side of the plaza is busted, sections either lying flat on the ground, or missing completely. It should be part of the red line, the cordon dividing Namibia into a "safe" veterinary sector, supposedly FMD free, and the "wilderness" beyond. Some of us get out, talk to the warden, there is a brief back and forth, some favours are exchanged. A few men with rifles line either side of the plaza as our convoy of three vehicles rolls through, a goat scurrying away in front of us. It is another 20 kilometres from here to a marked road, following the rough dirt track we're on. Twenty minutes later I see truly wild giraffes for the second time in my life.
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